Thursday, October 15, 2009

We;'ve been so busy

There's only 18 minutes left on our computer time for today and so much to tell. Some ups and downs to report. Our camera is broken so no more pics until we get one in Novemeber when we return for Thanksgiving. John and his girfriend, Ashley, visited for a long Columbus Day weekend. They had a whirlwind tour of western JM. They spent 2 days in Chapelton, two in Negril and 2 in Rose Hall at that Ritz. They saw the full range of Jamaican life. It was wonderful to have them with us, albeit too brief. We've struggled to help the hospital get a major fundraiser off the ground; the second effort was just canceled but we're ever optimistic that the next effort will be the right one. They desperately need things like reliable water, a washing machine to launder the linen, computers for the records room, garbage bags for the garbage. Items you and I take for granted in the most basic hospitals. Hopefully, we're on the right track this time. Gary's writing more grants to get toilet facilities for homes and schools. I'm preparing to teach certificate programs to teachers and parents in Healthy Lifestyle Living. A few friends have indicated they may or will visit us in the winter. We'll be glad to have more American's around. Many of the volunteers who started with us and who are still here are counting the days until they come home. Although we're still busy and doing meaningful work we too are anxious to come home next summer.

Keep everting crisp, Margaret

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Friday, September 4, 2009

Wickets, Overs, Bowlers, and the White Witch

Two weekends ago (August 23) one of the coaches that Margaret is tutoring in exercise physiology decided that it was time to go on a day trip to a part of Jamaica we hadn’t visited. So on Sunday morning we took off at 8 am (scheduled for 7am) and headed to the south shore to a place named Alligator Pond…the beach was called Little Ochi (named after the north shore town of Ochi Rios). The beach was pleasant, not crowded and different in that the sand was black…the picture attached to this blog doesn’t really show the color very well but believe me it was black. After an hour or so beach walk, some lazy Sunday morning lounging and some wonderful shrimp and Red Stripe for lunch we ventured back on a little different course and stopped off in Mandeville (a town nestled up in the mountains and always cooler than wherever else we’ve been) to take in a cricket match.

I will not bore you with the details of the match except for a few common-like features that were similar to baseball. It really didn’t matter who the match was between…we were trying to decipher which were the offense and the defense because they all wore the same color, except for the umpires. The “pitch” (similar to a baseball field in that it had an outfield and an area that was representative of a diamond – although not a diamond but a rectangular shape) was the playing field. The “bowler” was the counterpart to the pitcher. The main difference with the offense was that there was no such thing as a foul ball…everything hit was in play….and that balls that were hit and rolled past the outfielders and past the limit of the outfield were scored as 4 runs and balls that were hit over the limits of the outfield (like a homerun in baseball) were counted as 6 runs. Anyway we finally got the knack of the game after a couple hours…the winning team won 102 – 101 in a game that had a limit of 15 overs for each team. Each “over” consisted of 6 deliveries by the bowlers of each team. GOT IT?!!!!

Last weekend (Fri) was my birthday. We celebrated by playing two rounds of golf in Kingston and staying in our favorite hotel which had the last of its “summer specials.” It sounds crazy but we were in heaven and enjoyed a king size bed, air conditioning, wonderful Jamaican breakfast buffet, pool, and gym…in a quiet area of Kingston called New Kingston (which BTW is where the Peace Corps office is located). My present from Margaret was six books…I’ve already read 17 books since we landed in Jamaica……that’s essentially a result of no night life after 6pm.
Summer is basically over, just as in the US but you’d never know it with regard to the temperatures….(not like the temps I noticed on the NY channel we get which showed 50s and 60s for nighttime lows near the end of August). Children go back to school after Labor Day, just as in the US, but it’s not called Labor Day here…that was back in May.
We are anxiously awaiting the arrival of our first guests (John and his new girlfriend, Ashley) scheduled for Columbus Day weekend (US). We plan to show them around Chapelton for a day or so and then venture to Negril (the capital of “chill”) in the far west of Jamaica. We’ve not been there yet so it will be an experience for all four of us. They will be treated to Jamaican taxi and minibus transportation on the way. After chilling for two days we will end the long weekend in Rose Hall (Montego Bay) with a round of golf at the White Witch Golf Club…which is named after the ‘White Witch’ of Rose Hall…an old sugar cane plantation back in the 1800’s…Rose Hall is the name of the main house located on the plantation, where the White Witch (Annie Palmer) lived and supposedly murdered three of her lovers (husbands and slave lover)…it was burned down by the slaves during a rebellion and then restored in the mid 1900’s by an Englishman. The course is now located on part of the old plantation grounds and is supposed to be very scenic overlooking the Caribbean on many holes. Johnny Cash’s Jamaican home is very close by on the grounds of Cinnamon Hill Golf Course [it does sound as if we only play golf in JA, trust us, that’s not the case, it’s an escape on the occasional weekends we have nothing to do].
Till next time…walk gud!!!

Monday, August 3, 2009

Margaret's turned 65

Tidbits from the Caribbean

Happy Birthday to me; I’m 65 today and “everting bi crisp” [all is well]. We’re going to Ocho Riios tomorrow for a weekend celebration. It’ll be decadent American style: an all inclusive hotel with a king sized bed; restaurant; a gym; and air conditioning! Common place for most of you but a great luxury for us. We’re playing golf twice over two days. Although a standard for Gary before we left, I haven’t played two days in a row since we golfed in the British Isles four years ago.

Mangoes are almost gone but fortunately Mrs. Rumble has a late bloomer in the yard that’s still providing us with those luscious treats. The days are “hot-hot”, as the Jamaicans would say. We’re soaked 200 yards after leaving our house [literally dripping sweat]. There’s a slower languid pace about the days right now.

My community exercise class has grown so large that I’ve had to close it to new participants, at least until a few stop coming. For those who haven’t taken a class from me, it’s individualized for each student so I’m running around at a frantic pace trying to meet everyone’s needs. There’s a wide range of participants: one young man, three 13-16 year old girls, four women in their 20’s, four middle-aged women and three 60 and over, so you can imagine how varied each workout must be.

The computer center at the Community Center may open for operations this fall. We’ve gotten: free internet and phone service from an island provider [met a company VP playing golf and voila!]; six stable 6’ tables and 15 very strong metal and wood chairs from Food For The Poor; money’s been raised to secure the site; and the computer funding looks like a go from a government agency. The latter did an inspection of our site and their representative seemed impressed and indicated he would support action on the request for ten computers and all the necessary hard/soft ware, equipment and supplies at an upcoming meeting. Of course Jamaican semantics for ‘action and upcoming’ are not the same for Americans.

We’ve come to accept that rarely does anything go as planned or expected. For instance, the huge August 1 Emancipation Day Fundraiser the hospital had organized and planned for three months has to be postponed. Five days ago we got a response letter from the Parish [county] manager telling us the event couldn’t be held because, according to our letter to him dated June 1 announcing the event, it would be sponsored by friends and staff of the Chapelton Hospital. Government employees cannot raise money for government use. Fine, but did he have to wait until July 24th to respond??!! He claims he only received the letter July 20th, yet interestingly others in the same building received theirs by June 5. So, now it will be held October 19, Heroes Day. People were really looking forward to this event but, like so many other aspects of their lives, expectations are just “mashed up” [Jamaican for defeated or crushed].

I’ve been asked to develop a parent seminar course on Healthy Lifestyles for a nearby All Age School [gr. 2-9]. They want it to be a certificate program whereby the parents graduate from it. It sounds like an interesting project that I should enjoy.
If you’ve read about my recent foray into emergency medicine and dentistry you’ll realize that Jamaica is two worlds, the developed and developing. Some parts of the urban areas in Kingston and MoBay are, in many ways far ahead of the American standard, whereas the rural areas may as well be halfway around the world. It’s hard to believe that this small island [50 miles X 175 miles] has such variation. We step aside for oxen teams, donkeys, goats, and cows on a daily basis. No water, electricity, shoes, etc for large numbers of the rural people. And then I get world class medical treatment. By the way, it looks as if the speedy, skilled medical action has led to my tooth reattaching. Who would have thunk it??!!

Monday, July 6, 2009

Arizona...no! Southwest Jamaica

We just returned from the aptly named, Treasure Beach. What a wonderful find for anyone with modest means. Unsullied by commercialism and tourists, this place in the southwest corner of Jamaica is really something to “treasure”. It has a climate and vegetation unique from the rest of the island, hot and arid. Rainfall is low because the Santa Cruz Mountains to the north and east block most of it from reaching the area. There are loads of cacti varieties and relatively little vegetation compared to the rest of the island. Even though it’s hot, there is a constant cooling breeze from the time the sun dawns at about 6 AM until it sets at 7 PM.

We spent 4th of July weekend there to gather with our fellow volunteers for a one year anniversary celebration for those of us who have survived thus far. From the original 52 who arrived with us a year ago (July 3rd) only 63% are left; 33 hardy souls remain.

But, back to Treasure Beach and its wonders: Peace and quiet; no loud music or barking dogs, day or night. Just a few healthy looking dogs wandering the streets, but, like the sheep of Wales; goats wander freely about the community. They all seem to be tagged and owned by someone and each one appears to know to which herd it belongs and where they collectively coalesce. No beggars. No sexual harassment or innuendos. In 48 hours we were only greeted with friendly ‘hellos’, ‘good mornings’, and the Jamaican “good evening” which is ‘good night’. Relatively little litter, probably not more than we see in America. The highlight of Saturday morning was a six mile walk where only three vehicles passed us. One was a small pick-up truck carrying large fishing pots out to the beach (see pix). The walk took us down a peaceful winding road that was above the Caribbean Sea all the way until it gradually made its way down to the sea…as we walked west the sea was on our left; to our right the land rose fairly dramatically with limestone outcroppings all along the way. Great restaurants with affordable prices; we ate at Jakes, probably the most well known, where the tail of a two pound lobster cost $15. Very private beaches and [it seems] beautiful beach front and ocean view properties still available.

All in all it was the first locale in JM (that really looks like Jamaica – and not a US resort) that we both agreed we’d like to go back to. It allows the visitor to simply relax as if they we’re visiting a private island, but at an affordable price. The cost of a round trip flight from NYC to Montego Bay is now $250 and with bus and taxi fares visitors can get to Treasure Beach for under $1,000 JM/person [~$12]. At the lovely guest house where we stayed it was $60 US/night and included an ocean view, a few rides to area locales, king sized bed in a large room, delicious English breakfasts [the gracious owner, Roger, is from the UK] with a Jamaican touch, internet service, and enough DVD’s to keep you entertained for months.

On another front Margaret was in Montego Bay two weeks ago for three days of training on “exclusive breast feeding”. The Jamaican Ministry of Health has made it a priority to get every mother to exclusively breast feed for the first 6 months and to continue breast feeding with complimentary feedings until at least age 2. Their purpose is to improve the health of both mother and child and reduce the ‘Nestle Impact’ which will also save precious $$$. It was three days of intense training with 38 very motivated and knowledgeable health professionals. These people will become the trainers of trainers throughout the island.

On the second morning Margaret went for a run at 5:30, tripped on one of the frequent rough spots in the sidewalks [she’d just picked up her pace in a modest attempt to challenge herself for the impending National Seniors Sports Day Championships], fell with her hands missing the street edge of the sidewalk where she was located, landing face first on the curb edge and rolling into the street. She hit the curb’s corner edge on a diagonal across her face from the right eye to the middle of her mouth. She broke her upper right front tooth, it passed through her lip, she had a knot the size of a golf ball above her right eye and lots of blood. But otherwise she was fine.

The Peace Corps sent her to a private hospital where she got standard American treatment in the emergency room AND THEN she went to a dentist office near the hospital for further care. That was an unbelievable experience! The dentist, John Gordon, had all the highest-end technology. Within minutes of entering the dental chair the doctor took an x-ray with a hand held camera; it appeared instantly on an adjacent computer screen and showed the clear break above the gum line of the twisted tooth. He told her what he could do in the long and short term which would involve seven long 5-6 hour one-way trips to Montego over 6 months in order to replace the tooth with an implant because the break was too high up for him to do a root canal and crown. Then he emailed the x-ray to “the Caribbean Endodontist”, Dr. Shasha Nallapati in Kingston. Three minutes later they were discussing the options over the phone and Nallapati said he’d have no problem doing the crown on a root so short. They decided to push the tooth back in place and splint the tooth using a thin wire [looks like a retainer] and clear laminate to hold tooth in place. The wire and laminate are now placed over the front four teeth until she heals and meets with Nallapati on July 7.

The story gets even better after that. Gordon then sewed up her lip with 8 stitches on the inside and one on the outside. He lasered the outer stitch and all the severely abrased areas on her face. He told her not to expect any scarring. Not only are there no scars, some of her wrinkles and age spots are gone [of course on only one side of her face]. One Peace Corps Volunteer who saw her two days after the accident and then at Treasure Beach a week later said she wants to start doing whatever Margaret is doing to heal so fast.

As a close to this saga, on our way to Treasure Beach Friday, Dr. Gordon called to see how she was doing. Never has a dentist done that for either of us in the USA. As a further example of how caring Jamaican’s are, each of the 37 other conference attendees [who had never met her before], at some point in the remaining day and half [she made it back for the afternoon session that day], made it a point to check on her and let her know how concerned they were about her. So, for a while she looked like a domestic abuse victim [when Gary first saw her the next day his first words were “you look horrible”-in JM they call it Mashed Up]; but with great treatment and lots of ice she’s nearly back to normal.

Wak Gud, Margaret & Gary

Thursday, June 11, 2009

About to finish our first year

Mangoes and more Mangoes…and Labor Day!

None of you can imagine the impact mangoes [mang is pronounced like song or mongoes] have on daily life in May and June. It’s a veritable community passion for those little babies. Everyone’s eating them [including the dogs] and comparing theirs with those of others’. Just here in Chapelton there are thousands of trees each with many hundreds hanging from them; they are simply everywhere. You can’t look in any direction and not see several mango trees within your reach. And then there are the pits, large and golden [~ 1” X 2”], scattered all over the roads, the product of the locals’ mango orgy that ends with a simple toss to the roadside.

The varieties are called Common, Milli, Black, East Indian, #11, and a dozen other titles we haven’t yet learned. So many have shared their bounty with us that we could get sick [Mrs. Rumble eats six in one sitting] if we didn’t resist to some degree. So far Milli’s are our favorite. Common aren’t bad but they leave long stringy fibers hanging from your teeth. All are soft, juicy, and sweet. There’s another month left with more new varieties appearing each week.

We get them either from our friends and neighbors or just pick them up off the trail or street where they have fallen from a tree. The library has two large mango trees and we make a point of looking for drops each time we go. Many others do the same; so, unless you arrive early the ground’s already been cleared. When you come upon a tree with lots of drops the view is something akin to a fish feeding frenzy, everyone grabbing for one of those tasty treats.

Labor Day!

Two weekends ago the Jamaicans observed their Labor Day. Very unlike “our” Labor Day in September. The Jamaican Labor Day is a day for volunteerism particularly meant for residents to go out and do something for the community. This could include cleaning the streets, cutting the grass back off the streets up to the curb, planting trees in the park (something that Margaret helped with at a local park), picking up litter, or any other job that would help to beautify the area. The recently formed Senior Citizens’ Association, of which I am an ex-officio member and facilitator, decided that the Labor Day weekend would be a good time to run a fundraising dinner to feed the various workers who didn’t have time to prepare meals for themselves. This event took many days and lots of seniors to plan. After all the provisions were bought the cooking and preparation began about three days before the event, Monday, May 25. Our fare was fried chicken, curried goat (and yes I helped butcher the goat for the event), mackerel rundown, goat soup, and of course rice and salad (a slaw without mayo). The event went off as planned, albeit a little slow with customers. From noon to 6 pm on Monday the 25th many seniors helped with the cooking, serving, and general organization of the event. The economy here is no better than in the US….as you can imagine the number of people able to come up with $250-$300 Jamaican (about $3 US dollars) significantly affected our proceeds. After all was calculated we took a loss…but learned a lot for next years attempt. One of the most important factors (as suggested by one of the seniors) was that we had no music. Music is a big draw to any event in Jamaica…although I thought the sunny and breezy day without the ear throbbing reggae was quite pleasant.

Butchering of the goat was quite an experience. The Jamaicans are quite resourceful (as we have mentioned before) and this process was no exception. They used the head, the stomach, intestines, skin, not just the muscle we use for meat. Without going into specific detail about the whole process I will mention one thing that further convinced me of this. Nearing the end of the butchering process I took one of the hoofs of the goat, cut it off the leg and then discarded it in the trash. The man who was the main butcher about 30 minutes later said, “Gary, where is the front foot?” I responded rather sheepishly, “it’s in the trash.” He immediately gave me a lecture about how the Jamaicans use all parts of the animal and that I should retrieve the hoof. I found the hoof and was informed that the process was to take the foot and roast it over the outside wood fire….until the hair was burned off…then it was scraped of the skin and then put into the “manish” goat soup for flavor. WHO KNEW!

The summer is pretty quiet with regards to holidays…the next events will focus on Emancipation Day, August 1st, and Independence Day, August 6th. Margaret and I will join a number of other Peace Corps volunteers on a southern coast beach for the U. S. July 4th weekend. The younger volunteers are going to rent a house which will have wall-to-wall sleeping arrangements. We are going to check-in to a local motel!

Monday, May 18, 2009

Latest news from JA

We’ve just completed our second Trimester Report for Peace Corps Jamaica and the US Government. It’s a fairly comprehensive outline of all that’s been accomplished in the last four months. While filling it out it occurred to us that you might be interested in some of the smaller activities we’ve been involved with beyond the Wellness Program and the Citizen’s Association.

Our level of involvement may be an explanation for how well accepted we are in the area. The Jamaican’s seem to appreciate all we do. Almost everyone knows our name and greets us with enthusiasm. We are accepted members of the community; they look after us and are concerned for our well being and comfort. So, here is a brief description of what we’ve done in the last four months.

The Citizens’ Association had a huge breakthrough last week when we were in Dallas seeing the boys. They met without us, had the largest turnout ever, and new business items were introduced by residents!! It was great news to our ears. Everyone was very excited about the result. Before our departure the Executive Committee was anxious; until this success they all thought nothing would/could occur without us. We told them that if that happened our work would have been a failure.

Margaret’s been tutoring high school athletic coaches on improved training techniques; the football, basketball and track coaches attend weekly one hour sessions on relevant issues affecting athletes’ health, conditioning, and performance. Topics include: orthopedics/biomechanics and anatomy/physiology. The football coach has taken this very seriously and has totally revamped his training and conditioning regime for the players. She taught him how to analyze posture imbalances in order to identify potential future injury sites. That all began because several of his players complained of back pain. Now he’s analyzing everyone in site, players as well as his high school faculty/staff colleagues.

256 pairs of exercise shoes have been collected by US residents; 100 have been received and distributed thus far; the last 156 are still sitting in California waiting for us to get clearance for receipt of them. Each day Margaret gets a request for a pair of shoes from someone: a player, her exercise students, athletes, children on the street, and/or doctors for their patients. It’s been difficult to understand why receipt of the last 156 has been so hard to come by.

Then there are the regular weekly presentations to the Hospital patients on health related topics like: hand washing, healthy snacks, food preparation, STIs & HIV/AIDS, violence prevention, oral hygiene, exercising tips, breast cancer, cervical cancer, “Active Children and Their Health in Childhood and as Adults"; "Health Concerns for Sedentary Jamaican Women"; and "Osteoporosis, the Invisible Epidemic for Jamaican Women”.

Margaret teaches two sections of exercise classes twice per week for staff at the hospital and residents at the Community Center. So far there are ten regulars with more enrolling each week. They are dedicated and disciplined about getting in their exercises. They even met when we were in Dallas.

Margaret is teaching two men how to read. One has some simple basic goals like being able to right his name but the second wants to become a minister and be able to read the Bible.

Gary has developed the Electrocardiography Laboratory & trained nurses, community health aids, and doctors on how to use it. He’s collected loads of data during this project and wants to find a Jamaican source where it can be presented. Among other items he’s identified that men are three inches taller than their female counterparts but 30 pounds lighter; i.e. rural women are generally obese and the men lean.

Gary also submitted a grant for improvement of sanitation facilities in Sangster Heights, Chapelton environs. 11.2% of households in the community lack toilets or running water. He’ll learn in January what the result will be.

He also participated in a health fair in Canaan Heights, one of the most dangerous places in Jamaica. A wonderful humanitarian, Bill Shagoury, was the source for this initial venture into an otherwise off-limits area. He provided safe transport in and out of the community. It was a possible lead up to our opening a Wellness Program for those residents.

We both participated in the Sangster Heights Football/Netball Association fundraising. Recall we did the same for the Football Assoc. last December. Then the girls got themselves organized to the point that it’s now a joint association.

Finally, we both recently began planning for an Emancipation Day Fundraiser [Aug. 1] for Chapelton Community Hospital's purchases of two computers for the Records Room [Recall the hospital has 69,000 registered patients and all those records are currently maintained manually] and a DVD player for the Patient Waiting Room, as well as funding to repair the water piping system [there are copious leaks] so the hospital can depend on a daily supply of water [imagine your hospital operating without water; it’s a regular occurrence here].

There are more things in the works that we’ll begin working on as each of these activities becomes independently functional. Each day we are occupied with one or more activity[s] but that doesn’t mean we don’t miss many of you and those comforts of home. Several of you have asked if we’re having a good time. If it’s fun they are thinking of, no [accept for our times with Mrs. Rumble and/or our times on leave], there’s nothing fun about our roles. Rewarding, yes; we feel like we’re developing some sustainable programs that will remain after our departure. That is a heartwarming, albeit unfun, feeling.

More lata, Margaret and Gary
We’ve just completed our second Trimester Report for Peace Corps Jamaica and the US Government. It’s a fairly comprehensive outline of all that’s been accomplished in the last four months. While filling it out it occurred to us that you might be interested in some of the smaller activities we’ve been involved with beyond the Wellness Program and the Citizen’s Association.

Our level of involvement may be an explanation for how well accepted we are in the area. The Jamaican’s seem to appreciate all we do. Almost everyone knows our name and greets us with enthusiasm. We are accepted members of the community; they look after us and are concerned for our well being and comfort. So, here is a brief description of what we’ve done in the last four months.

The Citizens’ Association had a huge breakthrough last week when we were in Dallas seeing the boys. They met without us, had the largest turnout ever, and new business items were introduced by residents!! It was great news to our ears. Everyone was very excited about the result. Before our departure the Executive Committee was anxious; until this success they all thought nothing would/could occur without us. We told them that if that happened our work would have been a failure.

Margaret’s been tutoring high school athletic coaches on improved training techniques; the football, basketball and track coaches attend weekly one hour sessions on relevant issues affecting athletes’ health, conditioning, and performance. Topics include: orthopedics/biomechanics and anatomy/physiology. The football coach has taken this very seriously and has totally revamped his training and conditioning regime for the players. She taught him how to analyze posture imbalances in order to identify potential future injury sites. That all began because several of his players complained of back pain. Now he’s analyzing everyone in site, players as well as his high school faculty/staff colleagues.

256 pairs of exercise shoes have been collected by US residents; 100 have been received and distributed thus far; the last 156 are still sitting in California waiting for us to get clearance for receipt of them. Each day Margaret gets a request for a pair of shoes from someone: a player, her exercise students, athletes, children on the street, and/or doctors for their patients. It’s been difficult to understand why receipt of the last 156 has been so hard to come by.

Then there are the regular weekly presentations to the Hospital patients on health related topics like: hand washing, healthy snacks, food preparation, STIs & HIV/AIDS, violence prevention, oral hygiene, exercising tips, breast cancer, cervical cancer, “Active Children and Their Health in Childhood and as Adults"; "Health Concerns for Sedentary Jamaican Women"; and "Osteoporosis, the Invisible Epidemic for Jamaican Women”.

Margaret teaches two sections of exercise classes twice per week for staff at the hospital and residents at the Community Center. So far there are ten regulars with more enrolling each week. They are dedicated and disciplined about getting in their exercises. They even met when we were in Dallas.

Margaret is teaching two men how to read. One has some simple basic goals like being able to right his name but the second wants to become a minister and be able to read the Bible.

Gary has developed the Electrocardiography Laboratory & trained nurses, community health aids, and doctors on how to use it. He’s collected loads of data during this project and wants to find a Jamaican source where it can be presented. Among other items he’s identified that men are three inches taller than their female counterparts but 30 pounds lighter; i.e. rural women are generally obese and the men lean.

Gary also submitted a grant for improvement of sanitation facilities in Sangster Heights, Chapelton environs. 11.2% of households in the community lack toilets or running water. He’ll learn in January what the result will be.

He also participated in a health fair in Canaan Heights, one of the most dangerous places in Jamaica. A wonderful humanitarian, Bill Shagoury, was the source for this initial venture into an otherwise off-limits area. He provided safe transport in and out of the community. It was a possible lead up to our opening a Wellness Program for those residents.

We both participated in the Sangster Heights Football/Netball Association fundraising. Recall we did the same for the Football Assoc. last December. Then the girls got themselves organized to the point that it’s now a joint association.

Finally, we both recently began planning for an Emancipation Day Fundraiser [Aug. 1] for Chapelton Community Hospital's purchases of two computers for the Records Room [Recall the hospital has 69,000 registered patients and all those records are currently maintained manually] and a DVD player for the Patient Waiting Room, as well as funding to repair the water piping system [there are copious leaks] so the hospital can depend on a daily supply of water [imagine your hospital operating without water; it’s a regular occurrence here].

There are more things in the works that we’ll begin working on as each of these activities becomes independently functional. Each day we are occupied with one or more activity[s] but that doesn’t mean we don’t miss many of you and those comforts of home. Several of you have asked if we’re having a good time. If it’s fun they are thinking of, no [accept for our times with Mrs. Rumble and/or our times on leave], there’s nothing fun about our roles. Rewarding, yes; we feel like we’re developing some sustainable programs that will remain after our departure. That is a heartwarming, albeit unfun, feeling.

More laita, Margaret and Gary

Monday, April 27, 2009

The latest news

It’s Sunday and the end of the month so things are quiet. We’ve both been able to do a lot of catching up, among them is this blog; but tomorrow things will likely change on two fronts. First, last Wednesday the government passed a 20% increase in the gas tax [among other tax increases] and it goes into effect tomorrow [pretty quick turnaround for a country known for takin’ it ezee]. “Demonstrations” [some say riots] are expected. Ten years ago the same happened and after three days of rioting the tax was rescinded. Now the government says they won’t do the same again [there’s a ¼ trillion dollar budget deficit]. We’re safe in Chapelton, there’s enough food, water, and good people to take care of us; but island-wide PCV’s have been warned to stay near home and get their shelves stocked. Keep an eye on the news for updates on the situation.

Second, it’s the time of the month when our work picks up. We’ll be doing our Wellness Evaluations, planning for the upcoming Citizens Association, Senior Citizens’ Association, and Youth Group meetings [meet with Executive Committees, make flyers, put them up around town, & attend the meetings], teach exercise classes, make presentations, meet with individuals, do EKG’s, etc.

On Good Friday the Sacred Concert was a big success. Its theme was community unity and we think it struck a cord with many attendees. Because of that we anticipate a very large turnout for the next Citizens’ Association meeting [at least we hope so]. It was one of the first activities that Jamaican’s played a major role in. We had a fundraising committee that came up with the idea and plans and I just helped facilitate it. It went from 4-8:30 PM and the only complaint was that it wasn’t longer. So, next time, the second annual sacred concert will go until10 PM. At the event several churches brought “items” [song, poem, reading, skit, etc] and three speakers talked briefly about community unity. There was a band that kept things lively and a chairperson [emcee] who really livened up the performance [she was an item unto herself]. Over a hundred showed up and we raised $25,000 JA [sounds like a lot but it’s only about $270 US]. It will be enough to soundly secure the Community Center’s room where ten computers will be housed for training and community access.

One reason the Concert was so successful may have been that there is so little to do in Chapelton. An event is something people don’t want to miss. Taking that into consideration I suggested to a woman who directed a charming skit for the concert that we think about having an evening of dramatic skits. She jumped at the chance and said Jamaican’s love the idea of drama. We’re going to do it in June and see what happens. I’ll keep you posted.

Following on the theme of nothing to do for community members, we will help raise money for the Hospital’s Emancipation Day event. The staff at Chapelton Community Hospital is planning to hold a Jamaican Cultural Day Fundraiser on Saturday August 1. The twofold purpose is to raise money for: 1) all that is involved in computerizing their Records Room [all records are manually maintained…… all 69,000 of them]; and 2) re-piping the Hospital’s water system in order to regain greater control of the water supply [presently there is no water available other than in barrels about 50% of the time…pretty tough going for a hospital]. It seems the pipes are very old and leak so badly that when the water tank is filled to supply the Hospital for two weeks it only lasts a day or two. Since there’s no money from the government [they can’t even afford plastic bags to line the garbage cans let alone new piping] the staff decided to take things into their own hands.

The day will begin at 10 AM with a parade through Chapelton, complete with a traditional Jonkoono band [historic Jamaican band with instruments we haven’t seen] and mascots [guys on stilts, giant cow heads, etc]. The parade will end at the Market Place in Chapelton Center where authentic culture foods will be sold and historical items will be on display. The day will close with a concert from 6 to 10 PM. It sounds like a very big event where they hope to raise at least $200,000 JA [~$2,200 US]. That will be enough for two computers; security & voltage regulation for them and a chunk of the data processing to get many of the 69,000 records electronically entered. Any extra monies will go toward addressing the water debacle.

The computer side is so inexpensive because I organized an island-wide movement to get a Jamaican PC provider to sell refurbished computers to Peace Corps projects for $120 US. The service will offer the computer, monitor, all cables, voltage regulation [very important here, Gary’s first EKG was fried because of it], all necessary software for personal and internet use, 2 ½ year warranty, and technical support for that price. The two computers and security will cost $440 US and the data entry will be $2,000 US. Will keep you abreast of how this project unfolds. AND! Please pray no hurricanes hit on August 1!!!

It’s getting hotter and more humid, approaching what it was like when we arrived last July. We shower and clean up for work and in ¼ of mile we’re soaked. It appears that the comfortable weather runs from November to mid-April. Keep that in mind if you’re thinking about a visit.

Mangoes are everywhere, hanging like sexy little teases from every fourth tree. I can’t imagine what the feeding frenzy will be like once they’re ripe in May and June.

We leave May 7 for five days in Dallas. Not that we’re too excited or anything! We’re also coming home for two weeks at Thanksgiving and already have our itinerary set [not just the flight schedule, the day to day plans]. Some would call that sick….. we call it missing home, homeland, and the boys. Thank goodness we’re in Jamaica.

Love to all, Margaret

Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Why We Didn't Need to Go to Africa!

Recall our original assignment had been to Sub-Saharan Africa. Initially we were both let down when the Dark Continent became Jamaica. I couldn’t imagine their needs could be greater than that of Africans. Similarly, I was disappointed when we got our Chapelton (dead center of the island) assignment instead of more exotic sites like Ocho Rios, Treasure Beach, or Negril posts. I’ve finally come to realize that I was meant to be here, if for no other reason than to work for those who are in such great need. There was no necessity to travel halfway around the world; we only had to fly 75 minutes south of Miami for the experience.

On Saturday the second Football/Netball Funday Fundraiser was held. We helped with the effort to raise $$$ for the teams to get uniforms so they can qualify to play in Parish contests. If I haven’t already mentioned it, there haven’t been teams in our district for fifteen years. With NOTHING to do for the youths one dedicated citizen took up the task of leading the fundraising effort.

Now, fundraising in rural Jamaica has no semblance of what we’re accustomed to in the US; a donation of $ 2.00 US is considered reasonable and $20 is very generous. After months of planning, 80 man-hours of work on Saturday with 10 volunteers we raised $2,300 JA or $26, about enough to buy three shirts for the team. It will take a lot more fundraising to get 15 shirts each for the football and netball teams. In the meantime, players share shirts during a game. As a player comes out he/she takes off the shirt and gives it to his teammate to wear.

Uniforms are nothing, though, to what I experienced at the food booth where we worked that day. The major way to raise the necessary money is to sell food and drinks during the games. We sold traditional Jamaican fare; chicken, goat head soup, slaw, and rice & peas (red beans to us) along with beer, juice and water. At the end of the day the players were hanging around the food booth to see if there might be any leftovers for them. They couldn’t afford the J$250 (~$ 3.00 US) to buy the food. Finally, I was able to dole out to the girls’ net ball team the one chicken back left with a large serving of rice & peas. Ten of them carefully split it up and shared equitably without complaints or groans. A little later I was able to serve up the soup but there were only six cups remaining with perhaps 50 servings left in the pot. These hungry kids (perhaps 25-30) stood in line, got a cup, ate it and handed the cup off to a friend. They tried to use plastic soda bottles found on the field that had the top ripped off, but when I realized the bottles had been lying on the ground, ants crawling all over them, and who knows drinking from it I said no to that (not that the shared cups were any more sanitary). Only until the pot got low did a few kids get pushy about getting some soup.

But then I began to serve out the remaining rice and peas and that was the most telling incident of all. It was in half of a five gallon pot that had cooked all day and was dry and burnt. No matter, they were hungry and needed it. We had many more plates than cups and no utensils so only a few had to share plates but all had to eat with their hands. Fortunately, the rice was dried out so that I could spoon it out in large chunks, so eating it was easier than if it had been moist and separated. Needless to say there wasn’t a grain of rice, a drop of soup or even a chicken bone left to clean up. No food was thrown away. As I was serving the soup and rice & peas I couldn’t stop thinking of how fortunate our American children are. Even under bad financial times like these I can’t imagine many, if any, asking to eat what we would consider inedible food under quasi-sanitary conditions.

On the upside, we had a joyous First Annual Sacred Concert and Community Unity Fundraiser on Good Friday night. Our purpose was to raise money to buy computers and secure them in our local Community Center. Christianity and their churches are very important to large numbers of Jamaicans so a sacred concert was appealing particularly when there’s nothing much else to do. Many of the area churches sent “items” (an act) for the performance: choral groups, soloists, musicians, children singing, skits, and readings. We invited a director from the Social Development Commission and two ministers to speak about community unity. The new president of the Citizen’s Association was the chairperson (emcee) and she was a pistol, a veritable one woman show. Eighty people paid JA$200 admission and another 40 stood outside the gate to watch and listen. We didn’t know what to expect; but it was intended to run from 4-6 PM and went on until 8:30 with moaning that it should have gone on longer (It was outdoors and we only had one fluorescent light once the sun went down). We haven’t totaled the earnings because some money is still coming in from churches but I expect we made $16,000 or about $170 US. That’s enough to get a good start toward the computer room security and voltage regulation installed plus do some other small things for the Center.

Mango season is coming and the anticipation is much like that for Christmas. Citizens have been talking about it for months. Apparently you eat nothing but mango in all its permutations for two months.

More good news, we think we’ll be getting a high speed internet hook-up at our house next week (Jamaican next week could mean within the month). If that’s the case we may be able to produce more blogs and certainly spend more time communicating with all of you who email us.

If you’re not already doing it, count all your blessings,... the Jamaican’s do it each day!!!!

Blessa, Margaret

Monday, March 30, 2009

The World Economic Downturn Has Struck in JM

Something’s happening in rural Chapelton. It’s become physically noticeable since we’ve been here; more and more men have taken on a gaunt ghost-like appearance in their face. It seems to be related to the downturn in the economy and the subsequent loss of income and thus available food. There is 60% unemployment in Clarendon Parish (our ‘county’). Forty percent of women are clinically obese and many more, who are undocumented in the research, are overweight; so, it’s harder to notice weight loss in them. But in the men it’s easy, only 16% of men are overweight according to the research. With men already lean, any fat loss will be noticeable. I hadn’t identified it earlier even though it may have already been happening because men tend to wear loose clothing; I assume to keep cool. But, as I’ve made more Jamaican friends whom I regularly see and talk with, there’s an opportunity to see and grasp what is happening. These men, young and old, are farmers trying to feed their families and are sacrificing their personal well-being for their children and “wives”.

I’ve written letters requesting financial assistance from the government in the name of two of these men who are illiterate (this is the standard approach for those affiliated with the political party in power…those in the other party are just out of luck until or if there’s a change with an election). It’s heart breaking to hear their stories as I interview them for information to include in their requests. There simply is no work and thus no money to buy food beyond what they specifically grow or raise. There is lots of sharing and bartering but it must not be enough.

Sometimes when I consider the wellness programs we’ve started I feel a little foolish. Yes, the obese and overweight women benefit, but there is an underlying larger issue; we don’t have the tools to deal with seeing that all 3,000 residents have adequate and nutritious food supplies. One thing I’m going to suggest to our nutritionist is that when she sees the Wellness clients that she ascertains their ability to access food and, where applicable, school them on what Jamaican foods give the biggest bang for the buck.

And then there’s one effort Gary’s working on; he’s trying to get some kind of basic sanitation facilities to 11% of the dwellings in our immediate neighborhood that have no toilets or water. He’s written a grant to see if funds are available to have them built. We’re confident he will get at least four toilets built for one very large family compound. At that location we’ve tried to estimate how many people actually live on the site and are certain that it’s at least 25 but likely many more. Currently these people use the helicopter approach: eliminate in a plastic bag, tie it shut, twirl it around, and let it fly into the bush. You may be disgusted or amused by the approach but at this point there’s no other option. At the same time, just try to imagine what it would be like if 11% of your neighbors did the same; like here, vectors would be everywhere spreading infectious disease.

What lessons we’re learning!!!

On a high note, I had a fellow stop me recently and say, “hey, you’re the lady at the hospital who taught me how to wash my hands so I can stay healthy (most Americans do it all wrong too). I said yes, I’m the one, and then asked him three key questions: what is the one thing you have to have to kill the germs when you wash; what kills the germs; and how should you dry your hands? He got them all right!!!: clean water, friction (rubbing hard) all over the hands, fingers, and under the nails, and either let them drip dry or use a clean paper towel. It was good to get that simple but very positive feedback; I hope all those hundreds of other souls listening to me in the hospital waiting room over the weeks have learned as much.

We’re coming home again to see John and Stephen for a long Mother’s Day weekend in Dallas and are really looking forward to it even if it will be short. There’s nothing like hugging the two of them. Most of our fellow volunteers spend their time and money seeing the island (we’ve done a little of that) but we’d rather save up our days-off to see those wonderful guys.

Laita, Margaret

Friday, March 27, 2009

The latest for us in March 2009

March 27, 2009

Fruits, veggies, and more…..

Our regular walks in the community are usually dictated by the weather. If there has been a significant rain the night before we avoid the bush walks because of all the puddles and mud. So we are then relegated to the road walks which aren’t bad if we stay off the main road where some crazy taxi drivers come ever so close to picking you off.

On our most recent walk through the bush (where we usually find an orange or two to nibble along the way) we noticed that the oranges were for the most part picked…we were informed that it is the end of the orange season. A few trees still are full of oranges..mostly because these are the sour oranges..apparently they use these to make marmalade. But to our surprise we noticed little buds and then on one tree some flowers…the turn-around time from the last orange to new buds is quite fast. I stopped and asked a man in one of the orchards…he said that in five or six weeks there will be new oranges on the trees ripening. Right now it is spring…but it seems like summer with many other fruits starting to become available. Papayas are now coming into season…not very sweet yet, but good nonetheless. And then there are the custard and star apples, they taste and have the texture of custard. We cut them up and put them on top of cake or cookies, it makes a delicious substitute for ice cream and it’s much healthier. In about 6 weeks mangos will be the rage…I’ve heard lots of Mango stories…all types of varieties from big to small…from sweet to very sweet. For all intents and purposes we have been told that there is less cooking going on from May to mid-July because of all the ripe mangos. When we arrived last July the mango season was coming to an end….…so we’re looking forward to the mango harvest.

We started a garden (small area) last fall to grow some basil…(can’t find it in the produce departments of the food stores)…it is now flourishing. Our host mother has had most available parts of the property turned over for planting….tomatoes, callaloo, spinach, peas, beans….already on her property (which is a small lot about 20 ‘ x 60’) is sugarcane, banana plants, breadfruit tree, ackee tree, apple tree (Jamaican apple), and gongoo peas. You’d think it was summer back home…but its spring. Speaking of fruits and veggies the tomatoes in Jamaica are great….they are good all year long..not just during August in New England. The one thing I miss is nice green lettuce and romaine lettuce…we only have access to iceberg lettuce here…dark green callaloo replaces the spinach and is quite good.

Straying from the gustatory delights of fruit, we’ve noticed that culturally there are frequent births and deaths in our community. There are only 1,500 people in Sangster Heights which is the district or neighborhood of Chapelton where we live. There’s a funeral every week or two and twice that in births. Strangely, we have never seen or heard of one marriage that has taken place since we’ve been here. We can’t explain it culturally but it is hard to understand.

Otherwise, we are getting very busy. Yesterday's schedule was how it's becoming. 6:15 AM: ran two miles, 6:45: breakfast and shower, 7:30: Walk to hospital, 8: presentations to patients on handwashing and obesity, met with hospital staff about a fundraiser for buying computers for the records room [Chapelton Hospital is only one of two in the Parish that still handles patient records manually], & misc work in our office, 10: walked to library, 10:15: searched on the internet for information on teaching adults how to read, 11; walked to town to get some phone minutes, met with the manager of the local bank about free checking account for the local Citizen's Association and the donation of a computer or two for the hospital, walked to the Middle School to see if they had a literacy screening test that I could use with adults, walked to a local restaurant to get some flyers copied to advertise a community meeting, and had lunch, 12:45: walked to the high school for a weekly tutorial in Exercise Physiology for the football, basketball and track coaches, 2: walked back to the hospital to prepare and teach a 3 PM exercise class for staff who have done the Wellness Evaluation; 4:15 walked home, 5 waited for my second literacy student who turned out to be a no shoe [I was so thankful for the break], 6: ate dinner, 6:15 PM walked to meet a local Bishop about borrowing his church's drum set and keyboard for a Sacred Concert the Citizen's Association is holding on Good Friday. Came home and watched American Idol and was in bed by 8:30.

Tek cyar of usef an odders, Margaret & Gary

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

February 24, 2009

February 23, 2009…Burrrrr!

Thought that would get your attention….but Burrr!...NOT! It’s actually starting to warm up. There was a noticeable breeze during November, December and January…but now it seems that the northeast trade winds are abating and dehydration now becomes the issue.

During the month of February I experienced, first hand, another of the cultural events in Jamaica….dying, death, and the funeral. Our wonderful host grand-father (Sir Dawkins, a.k.a., Sir D) of 94+ sustained a stroke on the day we returned from the states (January 4th) . He really never recovered and was bed ridden until his death on February 1. We were at church when he passed but our host (Ms. Rumble) said that he died quietly and without pain…which was pretty much how the last month went. During the month he probably comprehended what we were saying but he couldn’t really communicate because of the stroke. For the next two weeks preparations were made for his eventual funeral on Valentine’s Day. Because I wasn’t too busy during the period I was able to accompany our host “mother” (his daughter) on most trips to arrange all the details of the funeral…including the funeral home, the church, and the burial ground.

About 50 years ago Sir D purchased some land (~5 acres) in Mocho, about 45 minutes from here, but only about 3-4 miles as the crow flies. Mocho is higher in altitude than Chapelton and his land has been sitting there for many years without any tending except for the locals who know this and walk around the property and help themselves to the: oranges, grapefruit, avacados, cassava, apples, bananas, plaintain, etc., etc. It is a wonderfully fertile area and about 5-6 degrees cooler than Chapelton with a beautiful view of the hills to the east. The first thing we had to do, which started about 7 weeks ago, was to clear some of the land so that we could select a site for his burial (which he requested). I went on two trips with 7-8 other Jamaican men with machetes in hand and started the clearing project. By the time Sir D died one acre of the land was roughly cleared; the next thing to do was select a site and dig the hole for his burial (Margaret in a previous blog told you about the wonderful cooperation in an event such as this). During the week following his death another trip to Mocho provided a final clearing and a decision where he would be buried. On Feb 11 I ventured up to the property to help dig the site. I arrived about an hour or two after the other men started this project. Upon my arrival one of the men gestured to me to take the shovel or pick and lend a hand. I proceeded to start swinging the pick….it felt like I was trying to dig a hole in a sidewalk! In the first hour the men had dug through the 7-8 inches of top soil and gravel; by the time I got there it was pure limestone…all rock. I did two shifts of “picking” and “shoveling” and worked up quite a thirst and a little low back stiffness for the next two days.

In addition to all the land preparation there was a lot going on at home…mostly food preparation by the local women friends of Ms. Rumble. Starting with the first Thursday after his death, people would come over after dinner and play dominoes, chat, and drink beer and rum until about 9 or 9:30…during this time the women continued to prepare for the “set-up” (the night before the funeral) and for the reception at the funeral (which was in our terms…”a cookout on the Mocho property” after the interment of Sir D).

The set-up capped the week off with a huge block party that took place at our house, with a large tarpaulin draped across the street to our front gate. In the carport under our room was the DJ and his electronics…across the street, about 10 yards from our room were two sets of 6 giant speakers. In the back of the house the cooking took place with giant pots of soup, fritters, rice, chicken, and curried goat. Hard to tell how many people attended the “set-up”…but there was enough food and drink for everyone. We were told the music would go on until 4 or 5 in the morning…we breathed a sigh of relief when the DJ closed things down at 1:20 a.m. The next morning we traveled to Four Paths and the United Church for the funeral service. In the program Margaret and I were list as the “adopted children” of Sir D and were given the honor of giving a tribute during the funeral. After a 2 hour service those who wished traveled up the mountain road about 12 miles to Mocho for the interment. The unofficial count at the interment was ~125 people! During the interment the cooks were busy preparing yet another meal for all in attendance.

In our tribute to Sir D we talked about how much we had learned from him in just eight months. He taught us how to age and die with grace. Never did Sir D complain about anything, not even our clumsy attempts to make him more comfortable or our American cooking. He was always grateful for anything we could do for him. What a lesson that was.

On Monday, February 9 Ms. Rumble’s children, John and Kerri-Ann, arrived from Maryland and NYC, respectfully. It was great meeting them and I’m sure it was comforting to Ms. Rumble. John was a pall bearer and Kerri-Ann read a passage at the funeral. After two weeks of preparations, the five of us, Ms. Rumble, John, Kerri-Ann, and Margaret and I left Sunday morning for a trip to Dunn’s River Falls…near Ochi Rios for a day off (See picture).

We’re off today to plan for a major clean up of the Community Center on Ash Wednesday [we’re hopeful the Minister of Labor will be visiting next week and then to begin teaching a Health Inspector how to apply for major grant money [he’s surveyed Sangster Heights, where we live, and determined that 10% of the homes don’t have toilets or running water].

This coming weekend we are off to Ochi again to visit an old college friend who works at Mayo Clinic and is presenting a paper at a conference entitled “Advancements in Medicine 2009: A US and Caribbean Perspective: Transforming Research into Policy and Practice.” Can’t seem to get away from the academics!


Wak Gud

Friday, January 30, 2009

The latest thoughts

We notice on the few weather reports we get, especially for those of you east of the Mississippi, that this was the winter for us to head to the Caribbean. I know we’ve complained about the heat but now that seems a little sadistic. No more weather woes on our part.

I’m home with a little down time while Gary is headed into Kingston to meet with medical personnel from Mayo Clinic at the Jamaican Ministry of Health. It feels good to have an extra day of rest because this month has been very busy.

Two topics for today: vegetation and segregation. Now that we’ve been here for seven months, more lights have turned on in my head. Each day I walk between six and seven miles primarily getting to and from home, the hospital, downtown Chapelton, the bus stop to May Pen, and the library. As you can imagine there’s tons of vegetation and some of it I’ve come to realize is familiar. What grows on the roadside here as weeds are carefully cultivated plants in the US. Marigolds are weeds; they are all over the place. No one plants them each year, they’ve been here forever. Hibiscus is similar. I had one that I pampered, fed, watered and basically fussed over for years just to get one or two blooms a year. In JA those babies are ubiquitous; everyone has them spilling all over their yards. Have you had a ficus [sp?] tree, aka fig tree? They must be placed carefully in full light so as not to get too much sun, but enough to keep the darn thing from shedding its leaves all over your living room rug. They are a common hedge material in JA. No one pays much attention to them other than to trim them once a year. These are just a few of the botanical wonders I’ve come to recognize in JA.

Socially, JA is far more integrated than the US. It never occurred to me that I lived a segregated life but recently the light went on in my head. I don’t think anyone reading this would consider themselves a segregationist but I hate to tell you, like me, you may be too, even those with the best intentions to avoid or overcome the notion; even my dear sister, Aimee, who is married to a Mexican-American, much to my recent realization, lives a pretty segregated life. Some of us are better at limiting it than others but our worlds are still very segregated. In the US we are overcoming, to some extent, racial, ethnic and religious segregation, but there are so many avenues we don’t consider. Americans generally live in neighborhoods where the population is of similar educational background [have at least graduated from high school]; with incomes that pay for transportation, phones, cable, food, taxes, etc [yes, even in the these tight times we get the basics done]; with neighbors generally in the same age range. The elders have either left for retirement villages, assisted living homes, or nursing homes; children play with their schoolmates, teens “hang out” out with their friends and would rather lose a limb than be seen with their family, while adults are generally with friends from either work, church, or their children’s friends’ families [all segregated situations].

Except for the few areas where many embassy people and the very wealthy live, JA appears to be fully integrated, particularly in the rural towns. People of all ages, educational levels [illiterate-can’t even write their name- to graduate degrees], religions [Rastafarians, wide range of Christian faiths, and non-believers- haven’t encountered those of Judaic, Muslim or other faiths], incomes [homesteaders who live off the land and community water supply to those with Mercedes and the associated amenities]; all are interdependent on each other and literally live side-by-side in this community.

They aren’t all best friends but they all depend on each other. The poor illiterate farmer brings his fresh produce or fish to our house where we gratefully purchase it for our convenience and consumption and his financial benefit. Or, if a senior citizen is alone in his/her home the neighbors of all ages stop to chat and bring food on a regular basis. If an emergency occurs it is remarkable how quickly so many people arrive within minutes to help, seemingly without being called, they just seem to know when help is required. Having never lived in one, it feels like what I imagine a giant family compound might be like. Everyone depending on each other and everyone expected to contribute. All this takes time, but recall that Jamaicans’ use time very differently from us.

Da al fi nou, Margaret

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

we're back and it's very busy

It’s been a long time since we last wrote on the blog; sorry about that. Things have gotten wildly busy, but it’s been great. We’ve had some real successes: 1. the new EKG is operational; 2. the Citizens’ Association is now official; 3. the same is true for the Youth Club and Senior Citizens’ Group; 4. I’m starting a second Healthy Lifestyles Club at another school; 5. I’m coordinating the acquisition of somewhere between 200-440 used computers for 34 PCV’s projects around the island; 6. after celebrating a Jamaican Christmas in Chapelton we went home for eight days to see the boys; 7. our host grandfather had a stroke about 20 minutes before we returned to our Jamaican home, and sad to say, is really on the wane; and 8. Gary’s working on the idea of getting equipment for a hearing study and possibly starting a Big Brother Big Sister Program in Clarendon Parish.

The EKG was used January 5 for a Wellness Screening of Chapelton Hospital Staff. What a slog that was to get the second one out of customs. It arrived on November 15and sat in storage until January 2nd when the Ministry of Health approved the $7.00 duty for it. But now we’re off and running and have a waiting list for future testing sessions. During the follow-up counseling sessions most staff/clients voiced appreciation for all the information, guidance and help we were able to offer. In February I’ll start exercise classes for anyone who has completed the Screening. If we continue on this particular track of success our next step will be to begin training staff to do our jobs so the program can be sustained and expanded after we leave. We’re doing some of the same BU/Pitt testing but have added depression, posture, and dental screens to the protocol. The latter has given us a few headaches because the Jamaican dentist has been chronically late; 2 ½ hours this week. I talked with him and hopefully we’ve arrived at a plan/solution that will get his fellow colleagues back to their work stations in a timely manner for the next testing date. As well, Gary will now begin to train the nursing staff on general use of the EKG for patients.

Thursday night we had our largest turnout for the Citizens’ Association, 45 people and it was a raucous event. The election of officers was held and it looks as if it could be a successful group. The Jamaican Social Development Commission will train them on how to be effective at their jobs. We’ll work with them until they get on their feet. We’ve learned that unbeknownst to anyone [why no one knew has yet to be explained] there is money in the SDC’s budget that had been earmarked specifically for our community center; all that has to be done is to write the request for it. So much is needed; it will be interesting to see how they choose to spend that money. If the election was raucous who knows how the battle over dollars will go.

The Senior Citizens’ Group looks as if it’s going great guns. They elected their officers Sunday evening [all these elections are necessary in order to become a recognized entity and qualify for things like government support and grants]. They had a wonderful holiday social in early December. We sang songs, told jokes, ate delicious Jamaican holiday fare and had a Yankee Swap gift exchange that brought a lot of laughs. Gary and I had given a phone card and a lottery ticket as two separate gifts. The lottery ticket was the most unusual of the gifts. Our host mother, Mrs. Rumble was the last to draw a gift and she got it. If the ticket won it would be worth $50,000 JA. She could keep it or give it to one of the other seniors and take their gift. Now you have to know Mrs. Rumble to appreciate the situation; gambling is not part of her vocabulary. She howled and moaned in agony over the decision for five minutes. It was comical; in the end she kept the ticket and eventually got nothing [not even one number came up].

The Youth Club has moved along in fits and starts. They also have expressed a desire to get organized so they can have something to do. I know that’s the cry of all older children but, except for school [if they go] there’s literally nothing to do in Chapelton; no movies [theater or DVD rentals], no sports, no swimming, no clubs, no computers except at the time limited library, no jobs, nothing but socializing on the street corners listening to music and watching older men while they smoke ganja and play dominos. Sunday evening they are going to give it another try. I think something may happen this time, but we’ll see.

As for the Healthy Lifestyles Club, my supervisor at the Hospital asked me to consider starting a second in another town and use the model of the first one. I just returned from Rock River All Age School to discuss the plan with them. It looks as if it will happen. I’m looking forward to giving it a try.

The computer situation in JA is limited at best. One reason we write so few blogs is that we’re limited to 30 minutes at a time on the local library’s PC [s]. The parenthesis represents the widely varying number of units available. For the month of December there was only one operational for most of the month. For the last several days before we left for the US there were none working. Anyway, it’s an island wide problem; I wanted something done; so I joined the ITAG committee of the PC [don’t recall what the acronym stands for but it’s something to do with technology] and became the point person for coordinating the purchases of 34 of my fellow volunteers for a sizeable number of computers. I have managed to get a shipper to donate his services to the cause [and possibly for the shoes too] and it’s just a matter of which computer refurbishing company we can get the best deal from all around [product, time frame and tech support] before we start the process of raising money [~ $80 US/unit with monitors, printers and Word loaded for Pentium 3’s and 4’s]. It’s all rather absurd with me doing this because I’m the most technically challenged human on the planet but I do see the need in Chapelton. The records department story you’ve heard, but the Community Center could offer PC’s for community use [oh yes, we’ve also learned that our neighborhood has been identified as a computer access point for the north central portion of our parish [again, who knew?!].

From our first encounter Mrs. Rumble asked us to stay for the Christmas celebration because of its festivities. So, in August we decided to honor her request and leave for the US on Christmas night after the major portion of the holiday was completed. We suspect that Christmas in Jamaica, like much of the Christian world, was subdued this year. Decorations were few and far between. But we did see some interesting cultural traditions around the season. Beginning in late November the US version of spring cleaning began and it was serious all over the Island. Even the government got involved with cleaning, clearing brush, and repairing roads. For the month people worked furiously to rehabilitate their property with painting, repairing, and renewing. One unusual tradition in that process is the painting white of tree trunks, stone boarders, midsized to large rocks embedded in the earth, and tires used as flower pots. Of those we asked they felt it was esthetically pleasing and desirable to have it done to their property. We asked several Jamaicans the source of the tradition but no one seemed to know; but all agreed it had nothing to do with an artificial representation of snow like we see in America.

So then we got to Connecticut and spent four days with John and Stephen while Todd and Riley joined us for two days. It was great to see those guys and feel their hugs. It’s the longest we’ve been away from them. We saw a movie, ate pizza and US beef, used a computer freely and watched television. Gary got to watch the Patriots do well but get knocked out of the playoffs. It was eye opening to realize how much we have always taken for granted; the comforts we’re all accustomed to are simply not available even in a country as developed as Jamaica. Gary also spent three days in Hardwick with his buddy Art Dell Orto [I was there for two days and left early to dog sit so John could ski].

Updates on the boys: Stephen has taken a player development internship with the Texas Rangers. He say it’s the next step toward his goal of becoming a GM someday and that it is the last internship. He’s literally on his way as of this writing to Arlington, TX. The Marlins gave him a wonderful send off. John and Todd were in Miami to see him in early November and said it was clear that everyone in the head office really liked him and the work he was doing. John is doing well in the commodities trading business. He trades chemicals internationally and specializes in chemicals for biodiesel fuels and compounded pharmaceuticals. It’s reassuring to hear that even in these tight economic times that our offspring are doing well. Todd was working away on conference calls with his IBM employees while he was with us and says he’s also doing just fine. Riley was a gem. At 2 ½ she’s charming even when she’s clear about not wanting something. She got to know us and seemed to have a lot of fun with each of us; it’s just a shame we will likely only see her very intermittently for many years to come.

As soon as Gary and I stepped out of the cab that brought us back to our Jamaican home from Connecticut I knew our host grandfather, Sirdee [the neighbors call him Oldie but he asked us to call him Sirdee] had had a stroke. Several people were trying to help him and when I got to his side I was the only one he recognized. We have a special relationship; he’s taken his role as host father very seriously with us and me in particular. I am his white daughter thus he always wanted to know where I was and that I was safe. We had many interesting discussions about world history and government. At 94 he had a wonderful spirit and since of humor. Now he’s taking this new condition with grace. He seems comfortable and never complains when we clumsily roll him over or readjust him. Mrs. Rumble, a retired head nurse, has chosen to care for him at home, so it’s almost like a hospice environment. Friends, neighbors and family drop by to see him even though he just lies there and can only mumble a syllable or two. Mrs. Rumble is taking a group of men, Gary included [fortunately I gave him a machete for Christmas; in Jamaican culture it’s like a very large version of the Swiss Army knife, real men wouldn’t been seen without it], to a remote plot of land Sirdee owns so they can cut a path to the top where he wants to be buried. I hope he’s able to go peacefully.

Now it’s Gary’s turn to share his thoughts & observations. Have a safe & happy New Year, Margaret

How do I top that “dissertation”…..? The only story I can add is one that happened about a week before Christmas when we were both (at the last minute) invited to a reception/dinner for a number of people that were either retiring from Chapelton Hospital or changing jobs…it totaled about 6 people altogether. The invitation came via phone call the night before the event and the person who called said “Ms. Rowe(the CEO) expects you to attend.” The event was scheduled for 2:00 pm on Thursday, a week before Christmas. After Margaret’s lectures and my meetings we arrived at the timely hour of 2 PM. The tables were almost fully decorated but no one was there except for the people who were working to set everything up and a couple of the retirees. It was clear that nothing was imminent. I retreated to my ECG office, did a little paperwork and returned every 15-30 minutes to see if the pace had picked up. Finally at 4:30 the event began with the six honorees and about 10 guests (including the two of us). The turnout was embarrassing but those in attendance made the best of the evening…..Don’t know if we mentioned this before, but cell phones are BIG in Jamaica; they may not have much…but almost everyone has a cell phone. And they are used incessantly, in meetings, in taxis, while eating….etc. As the host was announcing the first honoree (a retiree), his cell rang and he proceeded to answer it and have a conversation with whomever while the host continued the accolades about the man’s contribution at the hospital!!! One might think that was the exception but it happened once again during the accolades to another honoree. With all this waiting around, it'a a good thing I'm retired.

Lata, Gary